Life at work had been a bit stressful. Even for a phlegmatic person like me, events in the few weeks after the Revolution had made me yearn for a break. I had just smuggled my elder daughter from India for a break from her onerous medical curriculum - without letting her mom and sis know, giving them a huge dose of ‘shock and awe’. Younger one had a long weekend coming up at school. My wife, concerned at the black circles showing up beneath my eyes, suggested that we take a short trip to Luxor. For a change, without much dithering or discussions, I had our trip organised in a jiffy, much to her astonishment (I have this reputation of making lovely vacation plans, but never realising them!).
We boarded the EgyptAir flight from Cairo on a lovely morning. The kids were chattering away dime a dozen, giggling, fighting ... The younger one having learnt some elementary stuff about “romance and love” in the last couple of years, never missed a chance to demonstrate her erudite understanding on the subject, by teasing the elder one about a purported pairing – up back in college. While the kids kept up their banter, I cosied up with wifey, enjoying the languor that was settling in, after the hectic phase at work.
We landed at Luxor, and were greeted by Khaled, the rep from the travel agency. I always admire the exuberance these guys have, lifting the spirits of even the weariest traveler. Not knowing that we had been in Egypt for a year now, he let go of the clichéd greeting – looking at me, he asks, “Your three daughters?” Not wanting to spoil his morning, I and my wife played along and feigned happiness and clarified to him about 2 daughters and a wife!
As we drove into the town of Luxor the conversation veered on the Revolution, the tanks at the Government buildings bearing testimony that this town had also played its role. Khaled’s eyes were filled with passion as he narrated his participation in the protests and that he actually had been beaten up. There was a sense of immense pride in his voice for being a part of bringing about a new beginning in Egypt. He was filled with vibrant optimism and was sure that everyone’s lives would have dramatic changes soon filled with the prosperity and freedom, they desired so much. I could almost visualise the rainbow and bright happy colours that his mind painted of the future.
We reached the lovely resort and were ushered into the lounge for the customary welcome drink. With the family relaxing and enjoying the ambiance, I walked up to the reception to complete the check in formalities. I was greeted by Mariam (as I quickly read her name tag) who welcomed me with a demure, polite smile. I could sense something missing – while the courtesy was there, there appeared to be a melancholy in her eyes. I picked up a conversation with her on the hotel occupancy, which she said, with a tinge of sadness, that it had dropped drastically and hoped it would change for the better soon. That she was alone behind the counter and the paucity of porters in the lobby made me wonder, if this downturn in tourists had caused layoffs of some of her friends – and maybe she was uncertain of what the future held for her.
Trying to brighten up the gloomy conversation, Mariam cheerfully announced that she would be giving us a free upgrade to a luxury suite, as a promotional offer. I could not help but notice the irony of the fact that I had been offered me a special package, because there was a downturn (indirectly impacting someone else's life adversely). I went excitedly and shared the good news of our room upgrade with my family. But somewhere, I could not get Mariam’s sad countenance out of my mind. I recalled having looked up for the meaning and etymology of the name Mariam – amongst Mother Mary, it also had other transliterations which meant ‘Sea of Bitterness / Sorrow’ and ‘Uncertainty’. The changes that had happened in the recent past seemed to explain Mariam’s behaviour – she was uncertain and her thoughts were clouded with pessimism on the turn of events.
The next day, a professional guide was to take us through the tourist attractions of Luxor. We were warned to start out early, since the temperatures were rising and it could get hot by noon. Not wanting to get rush anyone, I let the kids dabble with their croissants and cup cakes. We were about 30 minutes late, when we saw a stranger approach our table and introduce himself as Ahmed, our guide. When our eyes met, I could notice a stoic but warm expression in his. Without displaying any emotions, he smiled and said that he would be waiting outside. My elder one got the message and quickly put her chocolate cake on a tissue and exhorted us to move on to the van!
Once we had set out to the Valley of Kings, Ahmed spoke into the PA system and welcomed us on the tour. He then shared that it was a very special day for him – it was his birthday!! His 50th !! We all effusively wished him. I am sure on this special day he would have loved to share it amongst his family members. But here he was, on a Friday morning, taking this tardy group, to show them the tombs of the Pharaohs, which he would have been to, at least 5000 times in his 30 years as a guide. But I guess, with the tourists coming only in trickles, he chose not to lose this day of earning, which would be more important in the current situation, than celebrating his 50th birthday at home.
My conversation, as has been my recent wont, veered towards understanding his views of the changes that have happened. Ahmed seemed to have absolute clarity – this change was good for the country. But he was also cognisant of the fact that he may not see the benefits soon. His thoughts were on his children and he was confident that now a better future awaited them. His practical mind without any ambiguity was clear that such changes needed time. He was satisfied with the certainty of the change although knowing well that would not be a beneficiary. He was not worried about the present or the near future, but was happy it was headed in the right direction.
We spent the morning entering the tombs, deep in the arid mountains, in the Valley of the Kings and Queens. We were really amazed at the elaborate preparations made for their after-life. On the way back to the Hotel, after visiting the Temple of Luxor, it suddenly struck me that we had not seen any royal palaces that the Pharaohs would have lived in. When I queried Ahmed on this, he explained that the Pharaohs lived in ordinary, simple houses in Luxor village. For them, it was the next life which was so much more important and therefore all their efforts and investments were for their lives after their death in this world.
We were to leave the next day. My black circles had lightened up a bit. My mind was free of my daily routines – but was filled with questions. Who was going to be right in their assessment of the future? Was it the youthful, energetic, optimist Khaled ? Or was it melancholic Mariam, who was uncertain and diffident about the future? Or was it pragmatic Ahmed, with his deep insights predicting the right future?
I decided to take a walk and mull over this conundrum as the sun began to set over the Nile. The walking paths were vacant and I chose a bench overlooking the Nile. I noticed the Little White Egret birds gliding over the waters. I was struck by their serenity in their movements as they flew over the Nile. So much turmoil had happened in the last few months, but for these little white egrets, nothing had changed!
My gaze went to the Nile, which was looking even more beautiful with the colors of the setting sun giving it a glow like never before. The Pharaohs of Luxor would have savored such moments and many, many others in the thousands of years since then. The revered Nile was there then and is here today – Pharaohs like Akhenathan, Cleopatra, Hatsheput, Ramses ... all understood that there will be events which may appear to be dramatic and of great importance for the moment - in our individual lives, in our community and country – but these are insignificant compared to the passage of eternal time. The Nile will outlive them and will forever continue to be a source of life, happiness and joy for generations to come.
While each of them strived to leave a legacy behind, they clearly realised and believed that our lives that we know and live today is irrelevant in the larger context of what after-life has in store for us.
And with that, I dropped the question from my mind on whether Khaled, Mariam or Ahmed would be right. At peace and with the understanding that the Nile exists and will continue to exist, giving life to many generations and civilisations - as we live our event-full lives in this world with so much excitement and emotions, which are of no real consequence.
I had received my Guidance at Luxor.
(Names have been changed to protect identity)
